Things to do nearby
Climbing in Sadernes: sectors, map and what you need to know
Sadernes is one of the best-known sport-climbing areas in the Girona region and, for many visitors, the valley's main draw. The limestone walls enclosing the Sant Aniol stream hold more than a hundred bolted routes, from 4b to 8b, spread over 25 sectors along the track that leaves Sadernes. There are single-pitch routes and multi-pitch lines on walls up to about 110 metres.
The rock is limestone, with slabs, vertical walls and overhangs: crimps, ribs and slopers. It's technical, sustained climbing, often shaded by the woods and close to the water.
How to read the map
Green: open sectors, climbing allowed all year.
Red (1 Intramon and 2 Gitarriu): only from 15 July to 15 February.
Orange (10 Atlantis and 18 El Galliner): only from 15 August to 15 January.
P: car parks along the track. The dashed line is the track; the blue one, the Sant Aniol stream.
These periods come from the Consorci map and can change from year to year depending on nesting. Before you go, check the current rules on the Consorci de l'Alta Garrotxa website.
Featured sectors
14 · Cova del Bisbe
The biggest and busiest sector, with around fifty routes from 6b+ to 8a: technical, endurance climbing on slabs and slight overhangs. Long routes: bring an 80 m rope. Beside the track, near the Hort d'en Roca car park.
16 & 21 · Castell s'Espasa
One of the oldest sectors, below the castle ruins. The upper part has 20–45 m routes from V to 7c; the lower part, some right by the track, mostly in the 6th grade.
10 · Atlantis
About fifteen routes from 6a to 7c+, including highly rated classics. Closed for much of the year for nesting: only from 15 August to 15 January.
12 · Iniciació
As the name suggests, the place to start out or to climb with children, beside the track and the Hort d'en Roca car park, between the Cova del Bisbe and the Celler de les Monges.
1 & 2 · Intramon and Gitarriu
The big walls of the Gitarriu cliffs, at the north end of the valley, with the longest routes. Only from 15 July to 15 February.
23–25 · Senglar, Mainada and Segona Proposta
The first sectors you reach leaving Sadernes, near the Pas dels Aures bridge. Open all year.
Access and parking
All the Sadernes sectors are reached from the track that follows the stream. There are car parks at the Pas dels Aures bridge, Castell s'Espasa, Hort d'en Roca and Trencant de la Muntada. In high season vehicle access to the valley is regulated and parking must be booked on the Consorci website. If you're staying at the campsite, you can walk there.
Some sectors require crossing the stream: in spring or after heavy rain it's sometimes impassable.
Other Alta Garrotxa areas
Besides Sadernes, the Alta Garrotxa has more than 40 sectors in three other areas: the Ferran ridge, towards Oix; Bellavista, near Sales de Llierca, with two sectors restricted for nesting; and El Castellot, towards Beuda, with fourteen sectors, some closed for part of the year.
The valley of walls
SadernesSport climbing 
Sant Aniol valley 
El Bisbe and l'Espasa 
The valley 
A swim after climbing
Tips
In summer, look for shaded walls and climb early; spring and autumn offer the best conditions. Check each route's topo for the rope length and number of quickdraws you need, and wear a helmet (rockfall happens). Always check the state of the bolts.
Park where you're meant to, don't make new paths at the foot of the routes and take all your rubbish with you. And after climbing, a swim in the pool and a rest at the campsite.